Machiya as Cultural Crossroads
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Tourism in Today’s Kyōto
Kyōto welcomes an enormous number of both domestic and international travelers each year, all drawn by the desire to experience what is widely described as “Japanese tradition.” Naturally, the network of symbols and meanings evoked by this expression differs between Japanese and foreign visitors. Yet, there is little doubt that tourism marketing consistently presents Kyōto as the capital of traditional Japanese culture—standing in contrast to Tōkyō, which promotes itself as a global, modern metropolis. Thus, the city’s primary source of fascination—the mechanism through which the urban space constructs its image and becomes a “product” to be consumed—is, for both groups, the promise of a traditional experience.
View of Sannenzaka, Higashiyama, during a rare quiet moment following the pandemic, 2023. Lined along both sides of the street are rows of machiya, preserving the traditional streetscape. Photograph by author
The “Kyoto Traveler’s Promise” is a voluntary pledge launched by the City of Kyōto and DMO KYOTO to promote respectful and sustainable tourism. Logo and materials © City of Kyōto/ DMO KYOTO. Used for informational and educational purposes
An invitation to slowness is central to this experience, allowing travelers to absorb the sensations conveyed by Kyōto’s landscape, where both nature and the built environment stimulate the senses.
When imagining a street lined with traditional Japanese buildings, one of the first examples that comes to mind is Sannenzaka (also called Sanneizaka) in Kyōto. Together with the nearby Ninenzaka (also Nineizaka) it winds up from Ishi no Michi toward the Kiyomizudera Temple. Both are listed as Preservation Districts for Groups of Traditional Buildings, which means that machiya and teahouses in these areas cannot be modified without municipal approval, and new construction permits are rarely granted.
While the motivations that drive a Japanese tourist to visit a “traditional” city like Kyōto differ fundamentally from those of an international traveler—as do preferences regarding transport, accommodation, and cuisine—the appeal to Japanese tradition and the promise of authentic local experience serve as a shared mechanism of attraction for both.
A major outcome of recent initiatives has been the publication of the Code of Conduct for Sustainable Tourism in Kyōto, developed by the Kyōto City Tourism Association in preparation for the post-pandemic reopening of tourism.
The introduction states that the document aims to promote a form of tourism that is:
"(...) satisfying and enriching for everyone—communities, businesses, residents, tourists, and all those who love Kyōto throughout the world. We believe that tourism in harmony with Kyōto’s local communities and residents will not only enhance visitors’ experience but also encourage the inheritance and development of traditional and contemporary culture, protect the beautiful townscape and natural environment, and nurture the economy. As a result, making Kyōto a wonderful place to live, visit, and work."
The emphasis placed on the relationship between tourist presence and local communities is of central importance to the discussion surrounding machiya. The Code of Conduct provides guidelines not only for tourists but also for organizations and businesses within the hospitality sector. Visitors are encouraged to respect sacred and culturally significant sites, practice waste separation, engage—where possible—with local residents, and familiarize themselves with emergency evacuation plans.
The Role of Machiya
The idea of converting traditional townhouses into ryokan or guesthouses is relatively recent. Until the early 2000s, machiya were commonly regarded as dilapidated, unhygienic structures—difficult to maintain and unsuited to modern standards of living. This perception began to change as interest in cultural tourism and heritage preservation grew, leading to new initiatives that sought to repurpose these buildings as unique forms of accommodation capable of offering visitors an “authentic” Kyōto experience. The two main types of small-scale lodging facilities are minpaku (民泊, private residences rented for short stays) and kan’i shukusho (簡易宿所, low-cost accommodations). For reasons discussed earlier, machiya have become highly sought after by both domestic and international visitors, and the market has since expanded to include everything from luxury residences to more casual accommodations.
Kissa.mp4Interior of Kobutsu to Kissa Nagi (個物と喫茶なぎ), Kita Ward, a restored machiya now operating as a small restaurant, 2023 The owner’s philosophy centers on the reuse of objects considered “old” or outdated, with particular attention to the choice of tableware and a cuisine devoted to traditional flavors and seasonal ingredients. Photograph by author
Renovated machiya converted into an oden restaurant, preserving its traditional façade while adapting the interior to a contemporary use, 2025. Photograph by author
Over the past fifteen years, there has also been a noticeable increase in the number of foreign investors and operators involved in the revitalization of traditional dwellings for tourism purposes. Although detailed studies on the nationality of machiya owners are still lacking, research by Zhixi Wang and Yoshida Tomohiko has shown that the proportion of non-Japanese individuals holding licenses to operate kan’i shukusho in Kyōto is significant—exceeding 27% of the total sample, with particularly high concentrations in the tourist-heavy districts of Shimogyō and Higashiyama. Within the dynamics of the tourism market, complex social interactions also emerge—interactions that reflect relationships between different strata of society and, at times, respond to xenophobic tendencies. One notable example concerns the perception of Chinese participation in the Japanese tourism economy, which is often viewed with suspicion for several reasons, including those directly related to the management of machiya. Interviews conducted with owners revealed growing tension between locally owned businesses and kan’i shukusho managed by Chinese operators. The perception that the cultural heritage embodied by machiya is increasingly falling into foreign hands adds another layer of complexity to the already precarious situation.
"In my neighborhood, several machiya have recently been purchased and renovated by Chinese owners from abroad. In many of these cases, the exterior is carefully preserved, while the interiors are modernized. Management is often handled by external agencies, and the promotional websites sometimes include information in multiple languages.
I do wonder, however, whether such extensive renovations can still convey the original spirit of these houses. But at the same time, I have to admit that even local residents, especially young people, don’t pay much attention to the traditional everyday culture [...]. Perhaps the real challenge today is how to preserve that sense of connection, regardless of who owns the buildings."
H. M., machiya owner (personal interview, April 2023)
The Rekishi Kaidō Initiative
In 1988, Japan’s Ministry of Culture launched its first large-scale campaign dedicated to the historic roads of the Kansai region, known as Rekishi Kaidō (歴史街道, “Historic Roads”). The initiative proved immensely successful, continuing for over three decades and attracting both domestic and international visitors to the corridor linking Ōsaka, Kyōto, and Nara, later extending to include Kōbe, Asuka, and Ise.
As suggested by its name, the Rekishi Kaidō project centers on roads—but more precisely, on the relationship between the pilgrimage routes of the Tokugawa Period and the historical imagination associated with the Edo era. The concept is summarized in its slogan, “A Journey Through Space and Time,” where the word “journey” is rendered as tabi (旅), underscoring the slow, reflective nature of travel on foot.
"Discover Machiya – Kyōto Nakagyō" (Rekishi Kaidō Project, Government of Japan, c. 2010). Promotional leaflet produced as part of the Rekishi Kaidō initiative, aimed at encouraging the rediscovery and preservation of Japan’s traditional merchant houses. The brochure presents walking routes and restored machiya in Kyōto’s Nakagyō district, highlighting their architectural value and cultural significance as living heritage within the urban fabric of Kyōto. Personal collection of the author
At the heart of the initiative lies the association between the “spirit of Japan” and the Kansai region—a territory that served as the country’s cultural and economic center until the political dominance of Tōkyō. The itineraries proposed by the campaign dwell extensively on the ancient capitals of Kyōto and Nara, reinforcing their image as symbolic cities of traditional culture, where visitors are invited to discover and experience “authentic” Japanese tradition firsthand.
Among the various traditional experiences listed in the bilingual guides (typically in Japanese and English) that accompany the Rekishi Kaidō routes, special attention is devoted to the machiya.
A new lease on life for the old merchant houses in Japan
Long ago the merchants and artisans of Japan lived and worked in traditional Japanese houses, known as “Machiya.” People combined their knowledge of life and aesthetic sense to create these beautiful character houses, which have inherited their pride of workmanship. […] The Machiya have been creatively renovated by people who have realized the true value of their tradition.
Rekishi Kaidō promotional pamphlet
The pamphlet also provides a list of machiya located in Kyōto, accompanied by a detailed street map. Most of these buildings are restaurants, commercial establishments, or machiya officially designated as National Cultural Properties, which can be visited by reservation or with an admission ticket. Later in the text, the author of the Rekishi Kaidō pamphlet attributes to machiya a meaning that extends beyond their value as elements of the urban landscape, suggesting that these houses are still inhabited by the spirit of Kyōto’s townspeople from the Tokugawa era. Understanding the cultural significance of machiya, the text argues, has led to their reinterpretation within the modern urban context.
Part of the city's charm that attracts tourists worldwide has to do with the peculiar composition of its landscape, 2023. Here: a machiya beside a modern apartment building. Photograph by author
Travelers are encouraged to seize this opportunity to experience firsthand the everyday culture of men and women of the Edo Period.
The Rekishi Kaidō brochure is only one example of the many publications that focus on machiya and target travelers drawn to Japan’s traditional culture. Following the efforts of various associations to raise public awareness about the state of traditional architecture, several Kyōto travel guides began to feature sections highlighting the best machiya where visitors could enjoy a meal. One notable example is the long-running Leaf magazine series Machiya de Gohan (町家でごはん, “Dining in a Machiya”), first published in 2002, which remains entirely dedicated to Kyōto’s machiya-style restaurants.
Machiya as Cultural experiences
In most of these examples, machiya are described as buildings to be admired from the outside—or, in the case of guidebooks, as places to visit briefly, just long enough to “consume” the product sold within. However, such fleeting encounters may not satisfy travelers genuinely seeking to experience the domestic environment of machiya. Responding to this growing curiosity, some owners have partnered with private companies to offer organized tours and “experience packages” in historical houses. Prices vary widely: from a basic fee of around 2,200 yen for a guided visit to a traditional dwelling, up to 55,000 yen for a full-day exploration (up to date of this publication). The difference reflects not only the exclusivity of access—since the more expensive tours often include entry to private residences normally closed to the public—but also the inclusion of “traditional” activities designed to enhance the experience.
Example of the "cultural experience" packages offered by Vetra srl
Cultural Experiences in a machiya (Kyōto, c. 2020s). A selection of cultural activities offered within renovated machiya townhouses, allowing visitors to experience traditional Japanese arts and customs in historical settings
For instance, a tour offered by the travel agency Veltra allows participants to wear a kimono, enjoy tea and wagashi (traditional Japanese sweets) served in the zashiki, and have lunch prepared by the hosts. More expensive packages often include strolls through major sightseeing areas—most commonly Arashiyama and the Kinkakuji Temple district—private taxi transfers, and professional photo sessions in scenic locations such as Sannenzaka or Gion.
In the descriptions accompanying these tours, the visits are not presented as simple kengaku (見学, guided visits) but rather as bunka taiken (文化体験, “cultural experiences”), where taiken implies a bodily, immersive encounter. The terminology is deliberate: as lived spaces of everyday life, machiya offer a form of physical immersion into the idea of “tradition,” shifting tourism from a merely visual experience—strolling through city streets—to one that is participatory and sensorial. Naturally, the activities included in these packages are carefully designed to capitalize on the stereotype of “tradition,” aligning with the expectations of both domestic and international tourists.
While it is obvious that not all machiya residents wear kimonos, perform the Tea Ceremony daily, or eat only seasonal cuisine, the success of these performances relies on maintaining a convincing illusion of authenticity. To meet the visitor’s expectations, the overall experience must remain consistent with the visual and symbolic imagery of the “traditional home,” minimizing any contradictions. Visiting a house such as Tondaya—whose interiors faithfully reproduce the archetypal machiya aesthetic—is far less disorienting than entering a home like the one from M.-san’s family, where the elderly owner placed a large canopy bed in the zashiki to ease her mobility issues (personal interview, July 2023). Likewise, the renowned Sugimotoke, designated as a National Cultural Property, perfectly matches the images of machiya seen in architectural publications, while sharing little with a nagaya in Nishijin whose tenant has converted the tokonoma into a clothes rack.
Ultimately, these tours frame the machiya environment as a self-contained stage—an isolated dimension detached from its urban surroundings—where visitors can travel through space and time to reach the “heart” of traditional culture. What the ticket purchases, then, is not so much specialized knowledge of architecture or family life, but the opportunity to take part in a theatrical re-enactment of “tradition.” For the duration of the visit, the guest becomes a character within the imagined world of machiya architecture—dressing, moving, and eating like a man or woman of "traditional” Japan.
Machiya as Lodging Facilities
A related but slightly different issue concerns machiya used as lodging facilities. In the 1990s, most machiya in Kyōto converted for commercial purposes were focused on retail. From 2002 onward, however, approximately 71% transitioned to food-service businesses, reflecting shifts in tourist preferences (Muneta, 2009). Starting in 2015, the growing demand for accommodation led to a surge in machiya conversions into ryokan, hotels, kan’i shukusho, and minpaku. These categories all refer to short-term lodging, though their boundaries are often fluid. As mentioned earlier, minpaku are private homes or rooms rented to tourists—such as those listed on Airbnb—which initially operated outside the regulatory framework of the 1948 Inns and Hotels Act, raising safety concerns among residents.
Exterior of Azukiya, a machiya in Higashiyama, 2023. The dwelling, now used as a lodging, has been renovated following the traditional aesthetics of machiya. Photograph by author
A 2016 survey conducted by Kyōto’s Tourism Bureau revealed that the city hosted 2,702 minpaku facilities, of which 68.4% lacked the necessary registration under the Ryokan gyōhō (旅館業法, Inns and Hotels Act) (Kyōto-shi minpaku shisetsu jittai chōsa ni tsuite). This regulatory ambiguity affected not only Kyōto but also other tourist-heavy cities. To address the issue, Japan enacted the Private Lodging Business Act (Jūtaku shukuhaku jigyōhō, 住宅宿泊事業法) in 2017, establishing uniform hygiene and safety standards and introducing three new professional roles: the Private Lodging Business Operator, Administrator, and Agent. The Kyōto City government adopted the strictest possible measures under the Act, requiring a designated manager to be located within a ten-minute walk of each property.
Unlike minpaku, ryokan have been regulated since 1948 alongside hotels and kan’i shukusho.
Only a limited number of machiya are large enough to qualify as hotels, but many more can be adapted into ryokan or kan’i shukusho. In 2012, the Kyōto City Ordinance on Hygiene Measures and Structural Standards for Lodging Facilities was amended to relax certain requirements under the Inns and Hotels Act, including the obligation to locate a front desk, provided that the building was a kyōmachiya. This deregulation encouraged the conversion of traditional houses into rentable accommodations, allowing owners to redesign spaces more freely.
To align tourism with vacant housing policies, the administration also implemented the Kyōto City Ordinance for the Appropriate Management and Utilization of Vacant Houses (Kyōto-shi akiya no katsuyō, tekisei kanri-tō ni kansuru jōrei, 京都市空き家の活用，適正管理等に関する条例) and launched the Kyōto City Subsidy Program for the Utilization and Circulation of Vacant Houses (Kyōto-shi akiya katsuyō ryūtsū shien-tō hojokin, 京都市空き家活用・流通支援等補助金), which offered up to 600,000 yen to support repairs for converting vacant machiya into guesthouses (Kyōmachiya no hozen, keishō wo sapōto shimasu!). The subsidy, terminated in 2023, complemented municipal and private consultation services encouraging the reuse of empty properties.
Machiya under demolition in Kyōto, Kita, 2025. After standing as a vacant house (akiya), the building was scheduled for demolition. Photograph by author
Nevertheless, the proliferation of unregistered minpaku and growing citizen complaints—often about noise, litter, and a general sense of unease in residential roji—prompted the city to take a more cautious stance, even though conversions remain far from discouraged.
Adapting a machiya for use as a ryokan requires not only compliance with size and room-number standards but also a range of upgrades to meet modern expectations. Privacy is a key concern, requiring lockable rooms sufficiently separated for discretion. Air conditioning, fire-prevention systems, and modern plumbing are often added, as well as private bathrooms in higher-end suites. In the digital age, installing reliable Wi-Fi has become essential for travelers who seek a “traditional” stay without disconnecting from the modern world. Incorporating these amenities, however, poses aesthetic challenges: devices must be concealed within the architectural layout to preserve the visual harmony of the space.
Map of the major machiya converted into guesthouses, ryokan, and minpaku in the Kyōto metropolitan area. As the distribution shows, many of these accommodations are concentrated in the city’s main tourist districts, particularly in Higashiyama—especially around Gion and Kiyomizudera.
While some operators of historic ryokan resist extensive modernization, many machiya already contained such improvements before being repurposed. Threfore, the main distinction between machiya used as ryokan and those converted into kan’i shukusho or minpaku lies in the presence of staff. The former typically employ attendants to prepare futon, baths, and meals, whereas guests in the latter are left to manage independently once given the keys.
As with cafés and restaurants housed in machiya, there exists a growing body of publications and online listings dedicated to machiya-style lodging. Unlike guided tours, which are short and performative, the experience of staying in a ryokan, minpaku, or kan’i shukusho allows visitors to engage with the architectural space at their own pace, without the sense of participating in a staged reenactment.
Different market operators target different market segments: companies like Machiya Inns & Hotels cater to affluent customers willing to pay around 35,000 yen per night, whereas family-run or privately managed houses, typically priced from 10,000 yen per night, tend to fill their bookings quickly despite their modest facilities.
The Aesthetics of Authenticity
The idea of tradition exemplified by the machiya draws its symbolic and imaginative framework from the conceptual world of the Edo Period—a historical moment in which Japan had not yet internalized Western influence, and that came to be regarded as a sort of "pristine" era of Japanese culture. The experience of tradition, therefore, is associated with a sense of “authenticity,” sought—albeit for different reasons—by both foreign tourists and Japanese travelers.
When observing the dynamics of the tourism sector, particularly the mechanisms of marketing campaigns and the construction of the place image of tourist destinations, it becomes evident that tradition is not merely an abstract concept but also an economic asset.
Restored kyōmachiya in Kamigyō, Kyōto, 2025. The dwelling is now used as a guesthouse and lodging facility. Photograph by author
Asondeikinahare KYOTO, Kamigyō, Kyōto, 2025. Housed in a restored kyōmachiya over 120 years old, this cultural space in the Nishijin district offers visitors a range of traditional experiences, including tea ceremonies, culinary workshops, and guided walking tours. The name Asondeikinahare (遊んでいきなはれ)—a Kyōto dialect expression meaning “come and enjoy yourself”—reflects its welcoming atmosphere and its mission to connect heritage architecture with contemporary forms of cultural tourism.
Defining an object, a place, or an experience as “traditional” means assigning it an identity value that, within the industry, becomes a monetizable attraction. In this way, cultural heritage is transformed into a cultural product—a crafted artifact to be marketed and sold to the tourist-consumer. The machiya represent a clear example of how cultural assets can be positioned within the market. On one hand, they embody the narrative that connects vernacular wooden architecture to the culture of the Edo Period—a symbol of a lifestyle shaped by values and aesthetics perceived as “authentically Japanese.” On the other hand, they are highly versatile buildings that can be adapted to meet the growing demand for tourist accommodation.
Ultimately, there are several ways in which the tourism market capitalizes on the presence of machiya. The first level is that of visual consumption: traditional architecture constitutes an essential landscape element in defining kyōtorashisa (the “Kyōto-ness” of the city). The tourist’s exploration begins with the visual experience of the urban landscape; the presence of machiya is fundamental for evoking the sensation of entering another dimension—a world that belongs to the “before.” In other words, these buildings justify the association of Kyōto with the idea of tradition and, on a visual level, reassure the visitor about the legitimacy of their expectations.
Between the early 2010s and the late 2010s Kyoto experienced a sharp increase in accommodation facilities, reflecting a rapid expansion driven by inbound tourism. By 2017, the city recorded one of the highest occupancy rates in Japan, with city hotels operating at 91% capacity (Kankōchō. Shukuhaku ryokō tōkei chōsa. PDF report, 2018. No longer available online, personal collection of the author). Because of urban planning constraints and strict landscape protection laws, obtaining permits for new construction can be challenging—particularly in preservation districts. For many investors, therefore, purchasing and renovating a machiya appeared to be the most logical and practical solution.
Streetscape in the Murasakino area, Kita, Kyōto, 2025. This street, located near the Nishijin textile district, was originally dotted with oriyadate (weavers’ houses). In this photograph, a nagaya has been converted into a guesthouse for tourists, while the adjacent house has been demolished and the lot put up for sale. Photograph by author
However, the massive influx of tourists has had a profound impact on neighborhood communities, generating tensions—especially due to an initial regulatory gap regarding minpaku operating in residential areas. Although this gap was addressed by the so-called Minpaku Act of 2017, the problems associated with overtourism have not subsided. They remain visible in various parts of the city through issues such as overcrowded transport, noise pollution, and discomfort among residents. Among the secondary effects of overtourism is the displacement of the original meaning of these buildings: machiya may be perfectly preserved, yet increasingly detached from their social fabric. Many establishments are now managed by non-local staff offering imitations of Kyōto's traditional products, while only a few century-old craft workshops manage to remain active. Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka are still presented as symbols of Kyōto’s traditional landscape; yet, with their crowded streets, the gradual disappearance of residential use, and the proliferation of goods and services unrelated to local history, both are losing that distinctive sense of kyōtorashisa that once made them renowned.
Exterior of a nagaya in Murasakino, Kita Ward, Kyōto, 2025. Once operating as a guesthouse, the traditional row house now stands vacant (akiya). Photograph by author
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