If accommodation, shopping, and sightseeing (in, for some, precisely this order of importance) were perhaps the most appealing aspects of a trip to Kyoto, they were underpinned by a range of "basic" services. Some of these, like tourist information booths and tourist guides, directly supported and facilitated the tourist experience; others, like churches and hospitals, were perhaps used only by a small number of short-term visitors.
Relationships and interactions with one's guide aside, travelogues rarely described these kinds of experiences. Nevertheless, these services were listed in guidebooks and played an important role in (inbound) tourism policy debates and implementation at the national and regional level.
This page picks up a number of the key services on offer to visitors to Kyoto city at various moments over the 1872–1941 period: tourist guides, tourist information offices, rest centres and public toilets, medical care, and church services.
Guides were at the centre of the inbound tourist experience of Japan. The role changed greatly from 1872 through 1941 but, fairly consistently, guides were seen as indispensable for their ability to interpret and organize tickets and transportation, especially in the interior, perhaps more than explain a sightseeing spot. Guides were also valued companions, especially for solo travellers; or, at the least, many travelogues utilised a rhetoric of friendship when narrating relations between traveller and guide. Differently, guides were a locus for industry anxieties about the fair and hospitable treatment of foreign guests and the "correct" promotion of Japan.
In the earliest days of travel in Meiji Japan, "servant-interpreters" were contracted for a far greater range of services than would be associated with a tourist guide today, being expected to carry (or organize someone to carry) luggage, clean clothes and shine shoes, procure ingredients and cook dinner, and so on. Most were male, and were often referred to as "man-servant" or "boy"; but female travellers, advised the Murray's Handbook, "may sometimes find it convenient to hire a Japanese maid [...]. Some of them speak English and act more or less as guides" (1894, 4).
A detailed, and well-known, description of the process of hiring a guide in Yokohama during this early period is given in Isabella Bird's Unbeaten Tracks in Japan (1880).
Advertisement for the Kaiyūsha guide organization in Murray's Handbook (1891)
An example of the ideal "tourist guide," well-dressed and polite, knowledgable and cosmopolitan, from “One Month Tour of Japanese Culture,” NIPPON no. 17 (1938)
From the 1890s, there were increasing attempts to regulate and professionalize tourist guides, largely in response to frequent complaints from travellers about unscrupulous guides taking a cut of transactions or their lack of knowledge about places in Japan.
At first, reforms were carried out by the Welcome Society — which started to issue certificates for trustworthy guides — and nascent guide organizations like the Kaiyūsha (開誘社) and Tōyō Tsūben Kyōkai (東洋通弁協会). Following this, the Home Ministry stepped in and enacted the first central government ordinance on guide training and licenses, and the regulation of fees, in 1907.
While this period saw a shift away from the "servant-interpreter" model towards that of the "tourist guide," the question of how to properly train and monitor guides would continue to be debated into the 1940s.
As related in guidebooks, the fixed cost of a guide was 2.5 yen per day in 1898, 3 yen in 1907, 4 yen in 1914 and 10 yen in 1926, plus hotel and other expenses. There were some guides who charged less, however, and additional charges depending on the size of the tourist party.
"We arrived in Kyoto to find the city full of processions en route for the temples in the hills. We felt a trifle lost, when suddenly there fell upon us an amazing person. With a wide smile he extended his card, which bore the remarkable name of Tom G. Yosh. A man of mixed origins, Mr. Yosh is somewhat Japanese, though his linguistic abilities far outstep those of his compatriots.
'Good morning,' said he. 'You will see the Golden Pavilion, the Silver Pavilion, and all the sights of Kyoto, returning to my hotel for lunch.'
This all sounded a little expensive and we declined the proposition. But Yosh was equal to any emergency and after a hurried discussion with a taxi-driver returned to the Master and speedily came to amazingly cheap terms. He was, I should say, a rare genius in the art of finance. We gatherered he had suceeded in getting us one of the lowest of the five prices which in Japan govern tourist rates [...]"
Ada Elizabeth Chesterton, Young Japan and New China (London : G.G. Harrap, 1933), 277
Initially, in the case of Kyoto, tourists were sometimes recommended to hire a "professional guide" via hotels in Kobe so as to help with transportation and arrival there. But "[f]ailing to secure one, the flying tourist may telegraph Yaami to send an English-speaking boy to the train at Kyoto" (Scidmore 1892, 33).
Into the early twentieth century, however, guidebooks started to advise against bringing a guide to Kyoto: "English is widely spoken and all the best hotels have information bureaus conducted by helpful men who can supply a local English-speaking guide at a moment's notice" (Terry 1914, xxvii). As this suggests, it became common for visitors to hire guides on the spot for an afternoon or day at their hotel in Kyoto, as necessary, rather than traveling for long periods together.
The need for a guide was further reduced after the opening of Japan Tourist Bureau inquiry offices (see below) at Kyoto and other rail stations from 1913. In addition, into the 1930s, guides and interpreters were stationed by public agencies at popular sightseeing spots in Kyoto. The Kinki Kankō Kyōkai (Japan Welcome Society, lit. Kinki tourism association), for example, dispatched interpreters to Chion-in during the annual Gyoki Dai-e memorial service in April to help foreign visitors (Kokusai Kankō 3, no. 3, 1935).
Still, some guidebooks continued to recommend guides for Kyoto and other large cities, especially for those in a rush: "time and money, in the long run, are saved" (Japan Government Railways 1933, p. xxxii). And, as the above quote suggests, travel writers continued to give attention to their guides, in Kyoto as elsewhere, suggesting they were still seen as a useful expense (and often a memorable encounter) by visitors into the 1930s.
At the 1872 Kyoto Exhibition, the organizing committee provided English-speaking staff on site to support foreign tourists, and clearly-labelled "police" (porisu) were instructed to escort visitors in their direction if any problems occurred (Chiyoma 2022). Also, for the Fourth National Industrial Exhibition that was held in Kyoto in 1895, the "Taihin Kyōkai" (Association for the Reception of Visitors) was set up to "render assistance to foreign visitors who may visit the city"; this provided information about accommodation and sightseeing spots, invitations to special sites, and help hiring guides and interpreters, as well as worked to facilitate connections between foreign and Japanese businessmen (Ichihara 1895, 2– 3).
Except for special events like these, face-to-face tourist information was primarily provided by managers and other English-speaking workers in hotels until the 1910s. Some hotels did extra, though. Operating like a travel agent, the Miyako [Hotel] Tours Bureau "cashes letters of credit; stores and forwards luggage and curios; conducts a local express service; secures accommodation on rlys. and in theaters; and buys tickets thereof; charters yachts; hires servants; and [see above] provides guides and interpreters at moderate rates" (Terry 1914, 400).
The establishment of Japan Tourist Bureau in 1912 saw the beginning of increasing oversight, and standardization, of tourist information across Japan and colonial territories. Initially, their Inquiry Offices (annaijo 案内所) were located in transport hubs and colonial capitals: Yokohama, Kobe, Moji, Pusan (Busan), Port Arthur (Lushun) and Dairen (Dalian), Changchun and Mukden (Shenyang), and Taihoku (Taipei) and Keijō (Seoul). These inquiry offices expanded to other cities, as the tourism industry further developed and the empire expanded.
Inquiry offices did a lot more than just provide free advice. Tourists could talk to staff about accommodation, transport, and sightseeing spots, and get hold of a variety of Bureau-produced pamphlets, maps, and guidebooks — some free (e.g. "Map of Hozu Rapids"), some for sale (e.g. "Map and Guide of Kyōto and Environs," for 30 sen in 1917). But, in addition, at inquiry offices tourists could also get introductory letters to "schools, factories, gardens, private residences, and famous buildings," and book a variety of train, steamer, and boat-train combination tickets, including for colonial Korea, Manchuria, and China (Japan Tsūrisuto Byūrō 1917).
Tourism-related businesses in Kyoto, such as the Kyoto Electric Railway Company (Kyōto Denki Testudō Kaisha 京都電気鉄道会社) and the Miyako and Kyoto hotels were members of JTB from the beginning.
Also, Kyoto was a popular topic for foreign visitors to the inquiry offices, especially in Kobe, the first office to open in December 1912 and the closest port to the city. Tourists asked about a range of things, from transport, sightseeing and amusements (including the Miyako Odori), hotel vacancies, and shopping (cf. Tsūrisuto, August 1913).
Photograph of the Kyoto Station Municipal Information Office, rebuilt in 1931, in Kyōto-shi Sangyō-bu Kankō-ka (1937). National Diet Library Digital Collection (14.5-701)
In March 1913, Japan Tourist Bureau started providing information through railway station inquiry offices across the country, including Kyoto. In December 1926, an inquiry office was opened in Kyoto Daimaru, one of a number that were situated in department stores primarily for Japanese customers.
Around this time, Kyoto City was also beginning to establish its own tourism provision at the local level. In 1927, it opened a Municipal Information Office for tourists in front of Kyoto Station; this was rebuilt on a larger scale in 1931. In 1937, an information office were also opened at Nijō Station, for travellers alighting from trains there.
Photograph of the Nijō Station Municipal Information Office, opened in 1937, in Kyōto-shi Sangyō-bu Kankō-ka (1938). National Diet Library Digital Collection (14.5-701)
As well as offering face-to-face advice to visitors on sightseeing spots, transport, and so on, the Kyoto City Tourism Bureau (established in 1930) distributed its own publications through tourist information offices. Most were for Japanese visitors, including titles like "Spring in Kyoto" (Kyōto no haru 京都の春, 1934) and "Sculpture in Kyoto" (Kyōto no chōkoku 京都の彫刻, 1939). But the city office did publish foreign-language guides — some 8000 copies of various pamphlets were distributed in 1937, with 4000 in English, and 2000 in both German and French. In addition, 20,000 copies of the 16-page brochure English-language How to see Kyoto (1937) were jointly published with Japan Tourist Bureau and "handed out to foreigners entering the city" (Kyōto-shi Sangyō-bu Kankō-ka 1937, 20–21).
A total of 322, 990 people used the Municipal Information Office in 1936. The nationality of visitors was not given but most, presumably, were Japanese (Kyōto-shi Sangyō-bu Kankō-ka 1937).
On top of promotional work, and heritage protection and management, the Kyoto City Tourism Bureau followed the lead of Japan Tourist Bureau and the Board of Tourist industry in attending to the physical comfort of visitors to the city. This included giving guidance to private ryokan owners, for example, about service and facility reform and, in addition, the development of public services for tourists when they were out and about in the city.
In April 1935, the first "Municipal Free Rest Centre" (Shisetsu Muryō Kyūkei-jo 市設無料休憩所) was opened in front of Chion-in, to cater for tourists walking around the many sightseeing spots in Higashiyama. It was built using a 10,000 yen gift from philanthropist Itani Ichirobei (伊谷 市郎兵衛). Itani had been closely involved in the tourism industry from the late 1890s: from a prominent Kyoto textiles family, he had trained as a Western-style chef in America and France, before working as the assistant general manager at the Kyoto Hotel and then opening his own French restaurant, the Manyōken in Gion in 1904.
The rest centre built using Itani's support was a "single-story Japanese-style wood frame" building, comprising a 45 tsubo (148 metre square) rest room with capacity for 250 people, flush toilets, and a night watchman's room. As well as giving tourists a place to take a break and use the toilet, staff were also on hand to provide “simple tourist information.” In 1936, the rest centre was used by a total of 123,298 visitors.
Photograph of the Free Municipal Rest Centre in Higashiyama, opened in 1935, in Kyōto-shi Sangyō-bu Kankō-ka (1937). National Diet Library Digital Collection (14.5-701)
Most of the users of the rest centre were probably Japanese. However, the city also managed pay toilets in Arashiyama (from 1910), the Imperial Art Museum (from 1924), and Maruyama Park (from 1933) that were specifically for the use of foreign tourists.
Toilets were a long-running complaint among visitors for Japan (cf. Campbell 2014); and, from the beginning of state intervention in inbound tourism, bureaucrats had looked to make reforms. In one of the earliest editions of Tsūrisuto (August 1913), for example, JTB General Manager Shōno Danroku (生野団六) presented a diagram detailing how ryokan owners might construct a wooden seat to fit over a Japanese-style squat toilet for the use of foreign guests.
The pay toilets built by Kyoto city were, presumably, intended not only to offer physical relief but also to impress visitors with their lack of smell, seats and flushing water, and general cleanliness. The City Tourism Bureau reported on the "keenly felt need" for decent public toilets in the Board of Tourist Industry journal Kokusai Kankō (1934, no. 1), and offered their construction as further evidence of the city's active efforts to improve inbound tourism hospitality at the local level.
As Eliza Scidmore wrote in 1892, "[t]he traveller has little to fear for his health in Japan, where sanitary regulations and quarantine are strictly enforced. There are excellent foreign physicians in each port, foreign and native hospitals and well-equipped pharmacies" (20). For this reason, perhaps, guidebooks rarely listed hospitals outside of Yokohama.
In the case of Kyoto as well, travellers were told that "[the city] is such an exceptionally healthy place that the services of a doctor are seldom required." But visitors, of course, did sometimes get sick. In this eventuality, "a thoroughly qualified English-speaking medical practitioner can be summoned by telephone from the city" through one's hotel (Miyako Hotel 1906, 26).
For prescriptions, the hotel (again) could put guests in touch with local pharmacies such as Oda Pharmacy, which had been in operation since 1796. It was conveniently located on Furukawa-chō, south of Sanjō, between the Miyako and Kyoto hotels, and close to many of the Higashiyama tourist spots.
An ever increasing number of Christian denominations were represented in Kyoto over the 1872 to 1941 period, with the number of churches in the city and Fushimi rising from around ten in 1893 to over fifty by the 1940s.
Guidebooks produced by Japanese and foreigners listed churches that catered to foreigners, though visitors were typically advised to seek more details about services from hotel managers.
In Kyōto, Japan (1903, 200), Azumae noted the following options: Doshisha Chapel (est. 1886), which held an English-language service every Sunday at 11am; the Holy Trinity Episcopal Church (est. 1898, renamed St Agnes Church in 1923) on Karasuma, with "prayer and sermon in English, every Sunday at 5pm; and the Kawaramachi Catholic Church (est. 1890), just south of the Kyoto Hotel, with Mass every Sunday at 7am and 9.30am.
By 1914, tourists were also being directed towards the Episcopalian St Mary's Church (est. 1911), as well as Methodist, Baptist, Congregational, Presbyterian, and United Brethren churches (Terry 1914, 400).
"On Easter Sunday I attended a union service but afterwards learned that there was a special commemoration at St. Mary's, and that the Episcopal Bishop Partridge was at the hotel. There seemed to be a great deal of friendly feelings between the different religious denominations in Kyoto; a little booklet given us at the union service containing information with regard to all the churches, including the Episcopal."
Ellen M.H. Peck, Travels in the Fast East (New York: Thomas Y. Crowell, 1909), 240